Sunday, February 27, 2011

Okay Weezer, I will post some new content! Soon.

Hi everyone. Thanks for checking out my blog. My sister Wheezy complained that I never post anything original anymore. She's right and I plan to remedy this in the near future. Right now even. Here is an article I wrote for the Fresno Longboarder Association's newsletter that I put out.

Tiny had been tracking the Epic Swell for the last six days, providing me with numerous updates. He was stoked that he was free to go surfing in a few days and there would be waves. I was excited to catch a swell at the legendary Pleasure Point. I don’t know how he did it but Tiny was able to sweet talk his beautiful wife into loaning him her Suburban for the trip. He probably owes her a night on the town and numerous footie rubbies. I’m sure it didn’t hurt that he put her on the spot by asking her while talking to me on the phone. I put the word out on the Internets that a trip was in the works to any brave soul who wanted in on the trip on what I’ve come to call “Epic Saturday”.
The crew of foolhardy daredevils consisted of me, Madsurfdaddy, Tiny (of course), The Grimm, and The Professor. I’m sure many of our surf brethren would have liked to come but instead chose the relative safety of snowboarding at the Peak or staying home. Yes, only the bravest and available chargers would rise to face the challenge and danger of Epic Saturday. The crew assembled at the appointed meeting place (The Grimm’s parking lot) at the appointed time of 5am. That is everyone but The Professor, who rolled up 40 minutes later. Explaining how in his excitement leading up to this day, he let slip to his beloved the impending peril that he would soon be facing. Having to promise that he would be safe and that the waves really weren’t gonna be that big, and if they were he would stay out of the water he was finally able to pry himself from her grip and get his tail to Grimm’s. Least that’s what he told us. (I think he just over slept)
We put the boards on the roof and commenced to lashing them down. Tiny and Prof worked on securing the rear while The Grim and I worked on the front. I tied the line but there was some slack and the boards moved a couple of inches when you grabbed them and pulled real hard. The Grimm had a go and to his credit those board would not budge after the lashing he gave them. I think he used 3 bungees, 2 straps and 50’ of line. At least he took so long that he could have used that much. I think I was just anxious to get on the road but I swear it seemed like it was 30 minutes he worked at it. Anyway, he was so winded after all that hard work he grabbed the front seat and saying his trick hip or bum knee or crick neck/back/eyelid made it necessary for him to ride shotgun. I differed of course, owing to my proper upbringing and sensitivity to the plight and challenges of the aged.
As it is whenever you are in a hurry, conditions conspire to slow you down. The tule fog was on the prowl and travelling in excess of 45 miles an hour would have been imprudent. Who wants to get killed in a fog related car accident while enroot to nearly being killed in a surfing accident? I don’t know why Tiny wouldn’t go more than 25 mph though. He must have promised Mama that he’d drive it extra safe. We rolled on thru Madera Ranchos and The Professor says, ‘Hey, I just live 3 blocks down that street.” We should have just picked him up on our way out. Note to self, don’t let The Grimm or Tiny handle the logistics of the meet up. Not the sharpest knives in the drawer if you know what I mean.
The fog finally clears at about Los Banos and the miles start peeling off. I think Tiny forgot that promise he made his wife and pushed that speedometer needle a couple of lines above the speed limit. A few miles below the summit of Pacheco Pass, Prof says to us, “I have some good news for everyone, but I can’t tell you just yet.” Well that got hour attention. I was thinking WTF, why tease us when you could have just waited. About 2 miles later he says “Okay now I can tell you, one hour from now we can be in the water.” In theory maybe, if the stars align perfectly. To his credit, if we hadn’t of stopped and found a parking spot and hurried suiting up, it might have happened. We stopped at a Mercado in Watsonville to grab some bananas, snickers and piss break. Boy those markets have their own unique smell don’t they? It kind of smelled like a butcher shop, fisherman’s wharf and swap meet all mixed together and topped off by the clerks bad aftershave lotion. Still….it smelled better than the farts Tiny had been letting fly in the Burban.
We arrived at last at the Point. You could taste the saltwater and mashed kelp in the air. Soon as we caught site of the wave once we turned onto East Cliff Drive a massive set rolled through. Peeling and spitting from Third Peak all the way to in front of The O’Neil house. Surfer’s looked like ants scurrying down curbs the waves were so big. Here our story ends. I could tell you about waves that were caught, the wipeouts and the close calls but you’d never believe me anyway. Suffice it to say: We came. We saw. We conquered.

Thursday, February 10, 2011

I had to pass this one on.

"In the time of your life, live—so that in that good time there shall be no ugliness or death for yourself or for any life your life touches. Seek goodness everywhere, and when it is found, bring it out of its hiding place and let it be free and unashamed.

Place in matter and in flesh the least of the values, for these are the things that hold death and must pass away. Discover in all things that which shines and is beyond corruption. Encourage virtue in whatever heart it may have been driven into secrecy and sorrow by the shame and terror of the world. Ignore the obvious, for it is unworthy of the clear eye and the kindly heart.

Be the inferior of no man, or of any men be superior. Remember that every man is a variation of yourself. No man's guilt is not yours, nor is any man's innocence a thing apart. Despise evil and ungodliness, but not men of ungodliness or evil. These, understand. Have no shame in being kindly and gentle but if the time comes in the time of your life to kill, kill and have no regret.

In the time of your life, live—so that in that wondrous time you shall not add to the misery and sorrow of the world, but shall smile to the infinite delight and mystery of it."
— William Saroyan (The time of your life)